After receiving much acclaim in Europe as a costume jewelry designer for Elsa Schiaparelli, Jean Schlumberger opened his New York salon in 1940 and quickly developed a devoted following that included Diana Vreeland of Harper's Bazaar. This exquisite brooch, c. 1945, is an early example of his work and exemplifies his penchant for nature and his love of rich, bold colors. The bright pink tourmalines and cobalt blue sapphires, against a framework of polished gold, punctuate the movement of this lively starfish.