NORTH INDIA, CIRCA 1850

The textiles produced in the early 1800s were more conservative in design, comprising palledar shawls often with a plain field and floral borders, and early jamawar shawls which were decorated with small motifs across the field (Fotheringham, 2019, p.49). The exuberant design of our shawl, however, exemplifies the shawl production of the mid-nineteenth century. At that time, the decoration had shifted to become more vivid and psychedelic with vibrant layered butas and swirling arabesques (ibid.). The alternating colours in the field of our shawl possibly relates to the ‘four seasons’ shawl. Depending on how the shawl is folded, the wearer has a choice of colour to display.