Buccellati expanded rapidly in the 1920s and 1930s. Notable launches included the Buccellati Hawaii collection, which remains one of the brand’s most successful and long-lasting designs. It features small circles of hand-twisted gold thread that are then intertwined with one another. Buccellatii Hawaii earrings, necklaces and bracelets are a favourite with collectors today.
The 1940s saw the launch of The Eternelle, a simple but elegant Buccellati ring created by the firm’s founder to symbolise everlasting love. In the 1950s, the firm expanded overseas. The first Buccellati New York outpost opened in 1951 on 51st Street. Buccellati silverware was an instant hit with the American market. By the early 1960s, Buccellati was a leading name in world jewellery. After Mario Buccellati’s death in 1965, four of his five sons took over the business.
In 1979, Buccellati opened a boutique on Place Vendôme in Paris. Since then, Buccellati has expanded its production by introducing new silver objects for the home. In 2000, the first line of Buccellati watches was launched. Other notable launches include the Animalier collection, the Romanza collection and the Opera collection. Buccellati Opera necklaces, earrings and bracelets feature a floral motif inspired by the Maison’s logo and Renaissance architecture. In September 2019, Buccellati was acquired by Richemont.
Buccellati auction prices range from thousands to hundreds of thousands. Christie’s has sold Buccellati rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces as well as decorative silver objects for the home. Buccellati engagement rings can also be acquired on the secondary market. Notable lots sold at Christie’s include a rare natural pearl and diamond Buccellati necklace, which more than tripled the low estimate at CHF 905,000. In 2014, a set of diamond jewellery, including a Buccellati necklace, Buccellati earrings and a Buccellati ring fetched CHF 305,000, nearly triple the low estimate.
MARK OF MARIO BUCCELLATI SR., MILAN, 1934-44
MARK OF MARIO BUCCELLATI, MILAN, 20TH CENTURY
ENGRAVED BUCCELLATI, ITALY AND WITH MARK OF FRATELLI LISI E FIGLI, FLORENCE, 20TH CENTURY