LONDON, CIRCA 1760

The shape of this etui suggest it was made for the Chinese market either in London or made in Canton. Undoubtedly its preciousness suggest it was most probably made for a member of the Imperial court. Its shape and style of opening is unusual for a European etui however the shape appears to be that of a Ming or Manchu toothpick case to be suspended at the chao dai or girdle much like a chatelaine, as the robes had no pocket. Important officials or members of the imperial court would often wear on their belts variously practical or ceremonial objects including purses and knife case (see fig. 14 in Catalogue of the Exhibition of Ch’ing Dynasty Costume Accessories, Taipei, 1986).

The motif of the peacock seems to further confirm that this etui was intended for an important figure at the Chinese court. The peacock is indeed a meaningful Chinese symbol associated with beauty, power, good fortune and rank so that peacock feathers were used to create ceremonial items for the Imperial court. However the blue basse-taille enamel is in the style of that made in England circa 1760. The enamel is in the manner of James Morrisset, a Huguenot by descent and one of London’s most celebrated makers of enameled gold dress-swords, boxes and objects of vertu. Indeed, the floral ornaments resembles those found not only on a chatelaine in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London (M.261B-1975), but also on a box illustrated in K. Snowman, Eighteenth Century Gold Boxes of Europe, London, 1966, pl. 460 as well as another box sold at Christie’s, London, 23 April 2024, lot 125. The present etui was originally sold from the Loup collection along with a matching dagger, now offered here as lot 482.