Beautiful in its simplicity yet incredibly complex in its design, Lot 31 presents an intriguing creation from the house of Tiffany & Co. Almost certainly a special commission, this bracelet is executed in a striking combination of stones and cutting styles. Exquisite lapidary work and vibrant gemstones together paint a picture of a rose reaching upward toward a moonlit sky.
Set against a backdrop of round diamonds, the rose is anchored in a vase of calibré-cut rubies. The sinuous emerald stem leads to the rose’s blooming petals articulated in buff-top rubies, perfectly mimicking an elegant cascade of flower petals.
Above the rose blossom, a richly saturated sapphire sky provides a backdrop to the oval-shaped diamond moon. The brilliance of the diamond’s rose-cut facets echo the moon’s luminosity. Amongst the sapphires, delicate platinum prongs give the illusion of stars, further enhancing the evening sky.
The figural, naturalistic motif of this bracelet evokes a sense of intrigue, providing a sharp contrast to the monochromatic and geometric designs that dominated the 1920s and 1930s. The preference for strong, symmetric lines and forms proves Lot 31E as an anomaly in the landscape of jewelry at this time. Longtime Tiffany & Co. design director and author John Loring wrote of bracelet, that this "exuberant Art Deco style is unusual in Tiffany jewelry."
At a time when French houses like Cartier, Lacloche Frères and Van Cleef & Arpels were captivating international clientele, this Tiffany & Co. bracelet stood as a moment of triumph for American jewelry craftsmanship, design and execution. Furthermore, few examples of Tiffany & Co. jewelry from the Art Deco period remain today adding to the rarity of this unique jewel. This combined with the exceptional provenance of Anne Eisenhower certainly presents a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire a true masterpiece.