Lot Essay
The pinnacle of jewelry design, the ‘Mystery-set’, or ‘Serti Mystérieux’, is an exceptional technique perfected by only a few master jewelers. So rare is the skill necessary to craft a Mystery-set jewel that the title is exclusively reserved for creations by Van Cleef & Arpels, creators of the technique that originated in the early 1930s.
Rather than using prongs or metal claws, the ‘Mystery-set’ is composed of a lattice of delicate gold or platinum threads that form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel. The best quality gemstones are calibrated to fit precisely within the overall design, each incised with a special groove cut beneath the girdle allowing it to slide onto the lattice. Taking an average of 1,200 hours to complete just one ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the final result is an elegant mosaic of color and light admired by jewelry designers and collectors alike.
Treasures of Love includes five jewels which feature this famed setting: a ruby and diamond bracelet, a sapphire and diamond bracelet, diamond ear pendants with ruby drops, a sapphire and diamond ring and finally, the ‘Ruban’ necklace. With an eye for the best of the best, it is not surprising that prolific collectors of Van Cleef & Arpels would have such classic and timeless examples as part of their assemblage.
Rather than using prongs or metal claws, the ‘Mystery-set’ is composed of a lattice of delicate gold or platinum threads that form a net, visible only from the reverse of the jewel. The best quality gemstones are calibrated to fit precisely within the overall design, each incised with a special groove cut beneath the girdle allowing it to slide onto the lattice. Taking an average of 1,200 hours to complete just one ‘Mystery-set’ jewel, the final result is an elegant mosaic of color and light admired by jewelry designers and collectors alike.
Treasures of Love includes five jewels which feature this famed setting: a ruby and diamond bracelet, a sapphire and diamond bracelet, diamond ear pendants with ruby drops, a sapphire and diamond ring and finally, the ‘Ruban’ necklace. With an eye for the best of the best, it is not surprising that prolific collectors of Van Cleef & Arpels would have such classic and timeless examples as part of their assemblage.